Saturday, 14 November 2009

The Death of Television

This week, the first region in France will switch over to completely digital television transmission. For the people of the Nord-Cotentin zone around Cherbourg, Wednesday the 18th of November will mark the point where those with analogue equipment will cease to receive any signals. Although this switchover is not scheduled to arrive in Paris until 2011, it seems that are already several victims littering the streets.

Television the drug of the nation, or television, window into the nation's psyche? Certainly a home to egos and super-egos, but perhaps less and less a reflection of how each country lives and relaxes. A large percentage of people today spend more time on the internet than they do watching television, and with video on demand or replayed programmes available on the internet after their scheduled slots, fewer and fewer people are watching the same shows at set times.

The principal victim of the digital era though is the old-fashioned television set. With digital signals, the receptor can take any form, right down to a hand-held telephone terminal. The box in this street corner has had its chips. Rejected and thrown out of a warm home, it was too cumbersome and took up too much space in a streamlined world. Final insult, it has been cut open, its guts spilling out across the pavement.

A wounded beast, this creature still has its antennae on its shell. Evolution will soon render these useless, leaving this dinosaur alone to a future of fossilisation. The steering coils were merely mortal, the cathode ray tube gunned into surrender. The life-support wires are still plugged in, but the electrons are negative and frequencies getting lower.

Digital television is the brave new world, but is the medium also writing its own testament? Today I get most of my information through the internet, but when I arrived in France in the 1990s, I learned the language and a lot about the country by watching television. The first things I learned were that French television was not good, and that apparently nothing at all happened outside Paris. Almost every programme lasted for a minimum of two hours, and was either stuffy, serious highbrow or desperate, inane lowbrow. Nothing was middlebrow, very little entertained, but it still helped me to improve my French. Today, my television is still a large box in the corner, but I'm not sure I'll bother upgrading.

Thursday, 12 November 2009

Something for the Weekend? (13th - 15th November)

This weekend begins with a special date – Friday the 13th! The French like to see themselves as rational and Cartesian, but the reality is that they have the same superstitious quirks as everyone else. Friday the 13th in France is traditionally seen as an opportunity to test your luck, so in celebration of this, here are three ways you can chance your arm this weekend – or three ways to lose your shirt! Good luck!

If you have any events or activities you think should be promoted or which you would like to promote yourself, please add them in the comments. Let me know also
if you have any events in the coming weekends you would like to promote.

Buy a lottery ticket
Gambling is not illegal in France, just run by the state and strictly controlled. Go to any Bar-Tabac and you will see dozens of scratch cards, lotteries and machines to bet on the outcome of football matches and horse races. Temptation in techocolour, but all run by an institution known as La Française des Jeux. This Friday, two draws take place; the national Super Loto and the Europe-wide EuroMillions, both of which are using this particular date and a four-leaf clover as the promotional tools of the week. It works though - more people play on this day than at any other time during the year. However, this also means that the total kitty to be shared out is also higher too, so it's a good time to get lucky!

You can also play online, but only if you can prove that you are French or resident in France!


Go to the Casino at Enghein les Bains
France is closely linked to the world of the casino (after all…faites vos jeux…the international language in such institutions is French!), and yet once again the rules governing such establishments are incredibly complicated. Until very recently, casinos could only be situated in a station thermale (spa), generally next to the sea or beside a lake. A secondary rule dictated that they must be situated at least 10km from Paris, meaning that the only suitable site in the region of the French capital was at Enghein les Bains, 14km to the north, .

Situated only 15 minutes from the Gare du Nord by train, it is a nice place to escape to even if you don’t set foot in the casino. However, the self-proclaimed ‘leading casino in France’ is clearly the chief attraction of the town, especially on this particular day! Further rules on casinos state that they must also offer a restaurant and other entertainment, so you may find more profitable ways to spend your time.

Go Horse Racing
As previously mentioned, it is possible to gamble on the outcome of horse races in certain bars in France, but only in a relatively complex manner. You need to fill in a card and select the first three, four or five horses for each race, which reduces the gamble to something akin to a lottery. If you want to bet on just one particular horse, you need to go to the track where the race is taking place and where there are fewer restrictions.

On this Friday the 13th, you have two possibilities. A daytime meet at Maisons Laffitte in the west or an evening ‘trotting’ meeting at Vincennes to the east of Paris. Gina Rarick, the trainer I met recently
informed me that standard meets such as the one at Maisons Laffitte are very poorly attended, and although the sport at a trotting meet is of low-quality ('nags from people’s back yards' I believe she said), the entertainment level is high. There is a good trackside restaurant at the Vincennes hippodrome, and it’s a fun way to see a slightly different side of Paris with a lot of colourful characters! For those not in Paris this weekend and those who are not superstitious, note that there is a meeting almost every Friday during the year – including Christmas day!

Tuesday, 10 November 2009

Spirits of a Good Samaritaine

In the centre of Paris sits one of its most haunted spots. On one side, the bustling, commercial Rue de Rivoli, and on the other, the animation of the river Seine. Between the two, narrow, silent Rue Baillet and the ghosts of Christmas past, present and future.

Ghosts of Christmas present. The buildings of La Samaritaine still stand firm, but like a ghost town in a Western film the inhabitants have all taken their horses and ridden away. The shutters are pulled firmly down, the locks rusting and the bottle green paint peeling and flaking to the ground. It is easy to imagine tumbleweeds rolling down this street and a loose wooden shutter creaking in the wind. There may even be a cowboy hidden away somewhere.

Ghosts of Christmas past. Generations of shoppers pushed open these doors, climbed the iron staircases, admired the art nouveau fittings and filled bags with quality goods and quality presents. In Christmas present the gifts will come from elsewhere. The doors of La Samaritaine have now been closed for four years and will never open to shoppers again.

Ghosts of Christmas past. These buildings are a gift from Ernest Cognacq. His first trading outlet was small change on the Rue de la Monnaie, but his vision was much grander. With his wife, Marie-Louise Jaÿ, Cognacq developed the structure, taking inspiration from the Bon Marché store on the left-bank, and built up a shop of departments, each individually owned and run. He plucked the name from a ghost, the Samaritaine fountain that used to sit on the neighbouring Pont Neuf.

It became an immense success, the right solution at the right time, celebrated with a redevelopment in a fashionable Art Nouveau design by Frantz Jourdain between 1903 and 1907. Later, in 1933, Henri Sauvage added a river-facing Art Deco palace, a ten-story temple to shopping with a rooftop terrace and a restaurant with a view across the south of the city. Ghosts of Christmas past, ghosts of Christmas present. It is these architectural touches, listed as historical monuments in 1990, which have saved the structure from destruction or brutal redevelopment, but which perversely also led to the decline of the store.

Ghosts of Christmas present, ghosts of Christmas yet to come. Along one side of the store runs the Rue de l’Arbre Sec. Legends tell us that this name refers to the dried wood of the hangman’s gibbet, and the association is apt here. La Samaritaine was condemned to die by its owners LVMH in 2004. It had become too old and dangerous they said. An expensive and time-consuming refit would be necessary to make it fit the required norms, so wouldn’t it be better to hang it out to dry, let time pass and put the buildings to more profitable use.

Ghosts of Christmas yet to come. In June 2008, LVMH submitted a plan to transform the store into office, small retail units, a hotel and a sprinkling of social housing - a spoonful of sugar to help the medicine go down. The city of Paris have accepted the plan, preferring life to this slow death, and the redevelopment should be complete in 2013. The cavernous, empty interiors will breathe again, but the ghosts will never go away.

“I will honour Christmas in my heart, and try to keep it all the year. I will live in the Past, the Present, and the Future. The Spirits of all Three shall strive within me. I will not shut out the lessons that they teach”

Sunday, 8 November 2009

City of Confusion

Go, don't go, wait, slow down and stop. It's a daily battle between the city and the individual. Diverted, round and round, sent underground, a dead end, it's where we all end up. The city is in control. Red lights, INTERDIT, the doors are locked, come again another day.

Penalty fine, €180 for leaving a trace of yourself on the streets of Paris without permission. A hidden corner, signs scream out the rules, but they are so easy to ignore when no-one is looking. When one breaks the law, others sneak through the gap behind them. If the city loses control, in the chaos, we all lose control of the city.

But how can we find our way around this city maze when even the street names can't be trusted? Pierre is higher, Pierre comes first. Marie added, an afterthought, a lead-lined coffin in the Pantheon of great men.

Thursday, 5 November 2009

Something for the Weekend? (5th - 8th November)

I have found only three interesting events taking place this weekend in Paris, so this time I will supplement the programme with a couple of exhibitions currently taking place in the city. The advantage is that you will have longer than just this weekend to visit them!
Note: One free event - a concert at L’International is taking place tonight (Thursday).

If you have any events or activities you think should be promoted or which you would like to promote yourself, please add them in the comments. Let me know also
if you have any events in the coming weekends you would like to promote.

A Treasure Hunt in the 5th Arrondissement
A group called 5sur5 and professional treasure hunters ‘Ma Langue au Chat’ (who I have previously featured on Invisible Paris)
have joined together to organise an event this Saturday in the 5th arrondissement. This treasure hunt will take you around the district and into the bars and boutiques in search of clues that will help you to solve the enigma. Of course, this will also give you the opportunity to sample some of their produce, including secret cocktails and rare wines!
Saturday 7th November, 3.30pm and 5pm. Prize giving at 7pm
Place Maubert, M° Maubert-Mutualité


The Reopening of the Musée Henner
Closed four years ago after only attracting 3800 visitors a year, the Musée Jean-Jacques Henner has been renovated, with the hope of now attracting upwards of 50000 visitors annually. The reopening takes place this weekend and will be your chance to rediscover this interesting 19th century artist’s residence. Henner was a very fashionable portraitist in his lifetime, but quickly fell out of fashion after his death. It was his niece who acquired this house, previously the studio of the artist Guillaume Dubufe (who painted the ceilings in the Train Bleu restaurant in the Gare de Lyon), in order to display her uncle’s work. She donated the residence to the state on the condition that they open it up as a museum. Although the artist’s work is not especially original, the house, particularly after this renovation which has sought to take it back to its original state, is certainly worthy of a visit.

Top tip: residents of the 17th arrondissement get in free this weekend if they come with a copy of the free ParisDixSept magazine. I can’t guarantee that this will work, but if you go first to the Mairie du 17eme (on the Rue des Batignolles) and pick up a copy of the magazine in the entrance you’ll probably be able to get in free too.
43 Avenue de Villiers, Paris 17e
Metro Villiers


Les Nuits Populaires – Sing Different, Sing French!
Who says that the English language is dominant in the music world? The intriguing idea of this festival is to get a selection of non-French artists to sing in French. Featuring musicians from Canada, the United States, Spain, Brazil and the Lebanon, it should produce some fascinating results. The highlight will probably be the wonderful April March on Saturday who is more than used to singing in the language!
Full programme available here:
http://www.cridupeuple.com/
5th November – at L’International (free entry)
6th – 7th November – at Les Trois Baudets (16 Euros)


The Musée Carnevalet ‘Fait Sa Révolution’
Paris has never had the museum that its rich history deserves, compared to the excellent Museum of London for example. The Musée Carnevalet in the Marais plays this role, but the exhibits are a little disparate, and there are whole chunks of the history of the city missing. However, if there is one period on which it is particularly strong it is the French Revolution in the city, and this is even more true today. A temporary exhibition in the museum has given it the opportunity to display hundreds of artifacts from this period in its collection, ordered by theme; the role of women, famous individuals, vandalism, religion and fashion for example. You’ll even be able to see some of the clothes worn by the royal family during this period!
From Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 6pm
Entrance price : 5 euros
Until 3rd January 2010
23, rue de Sévigné, 75003


100 Years of Gala Menus at the Musée Maxim’s
The Musée Maxim’s is basically a large apartment above the famous restaurant crammed full of Art Nouveau knick-knacks. The result is rather overpowering, but there is an interesting recreation of a courtisane’s “chambre d’amour”! Currently though there is a fascinating temporary exhibition on the theme of Presidential ‘gala menus’ from the last 100 years. 140 menus are displayed, including creations by Mucha and Chagall, for events that have included guests such as Eva Péron, Churchill, the Czar of Russia and John Kennedy. It is a really absorbing way to see what the famous and powerful have eaten over the years, and also how tastes have changed.
From Wednesday to Sunday, 11am to 5pm
Entrance price : 6 euros
Until 28th February 2010
3 Rue Royale, 75008
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