The Serbian Ambassador’s Residence

Perhaps the most secret areas of any capital city are the diplomatic missions of other foreign states. Although embassies and official residencies are not sovereign territory of the represented state, the fact that the host country must ask permission before entering such buildings means that they can operate in tranquil seclusion.

In Paris, several of the most luxurious townhouses in the most chic parts of the city have been transformed into embassies or ambassadorial residencies. Typical visitors to embassies find themselves waiting outside in long lines, before finally being admitted into the most banal administrative zones, whilst the residencies only admit a select few guests. Not many people have access to all areas, but one such person is the Serbian journalist Jelena Kalicanin. Here she opens the doors to the residence of the Serbian ambassador, one of the most impressive in Paris, and gives a little insight into what can be found behind these highly protected walls.

Why did you visit the Ambassador’s residence?

I am a Serbian architect and journalist working for Kuca Stil home interiors magazine. I chose to write about this residence because it is very interesting both in terms of architecture and decoration, certainly for the people of Serbia. I am also lucky enough to go there very often when I am in Paris.

What is the building and what is its history?

The building is the Hôtel de La Trémoille on the Boulevard Delessert in the 16th arrondissement. It was designed by the architect Ernest Sansson and built between 1910 and 1920 by the 11th Count of Trémoille, very much in a classic 18th century style. The count died before it was finished, but his son and grandson continued the construction. The family lived in the house until it was sold in 1936 to Alaxandar 1, the King of Yugoslavia.

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Is the interior in French or Serbian style?

The decoration is pure French, but you can consider the residence as a kind of gallery of Serbian artists who have lived and worked in Paris, such as Vlada Velickovic, Petar Omcikus, Milos Sobajic and Djordje Ivackovic. One of the the greatest Serbian painters to have lived in Paris is Milenko Serban, who studied at the Académie Colarossi.

What is particularly interesting about this residency for you?

Well, my article was titled ‘The Million Dollar View’ because the view of the Eiffel Tower from the residency and the garden really is exceptional! I think that perhaps no other building in Paris has such a wonderful view. Inside, there is a very large gallery of Serbian painters on the first floor, and a large and valuable tapestry in the antechamber which belongs to the French state. Each year they take it away and bring it back after cleaning it. There are also two painted wooden walls in the dining room that belong to the French state too.

The role of the ambassador is to represent the citizens of their country and to promote their country abroad. Is there a history of good relations between Serbia and France?

When the President Tito opened the Yugoslavian frontiers in 1962 many people left the country. Most of them went to Germany, but the architects and designers went to Paris. In general, relations between France and Serbia (Yugoslavia) have been very good. The old Belgrade fortress was designed by a Frenchman, Nicolas Doxat de Morez, following the model of the French engineer Vauban. There is also a monument which was erected in the glory of France thanking her for her support in the 1914-18 war which says “We love France as she loved us”.

However, after the start of the NATO offensive on Belgrade in 1999 in which the French participated, the monument was covered with a black cloth. That cloth was of course quickly removed, but the symbol was important. As for ill-feeling today, I'd say there is none in Serbia, but it probably still exists in France. History is always difficult. When talking to French people, I compare Kosovo to Corsica, and Milosevic to Napoleon, but they can't really understand this. When I asked them what Napoleon was doing in Russia, one person replied that he "wanted to show Russian people how to live better".

Anyway, I myself love France. During the war years, I was the only journalist in Belgrade who was able to go to France, and I love going there as often as possible.

Thanks to Jelena Kalicanin for her time and for the photos that accompany this post. See http://www.jelenakalicanin.com/index.htm for more information on her work as a journalist.

It should also be noted that this residence can sometimes be visited during the annual Journées du Patrimoine in September.

La Colonne Médicis – a mystery for Halloween

In a city that has been investigated and documented as much as Paris, not much remains that has a glimmer of mystery. Alongside the Bourse de Commerce near Les Halles though stands a 31 metre high column for which there are two unanswered questions; what was it used for and why is it still there?

The column itself is the only remaining vestige of a royal palace know as the Hôtel de la Reine. This palace was built for Catherine de Médicis in 1572, with the column being added three years later. It seems that Catherine de Médicis was a great believer in the divinatory arts, and employed an astrologist called Cosme Ruggieri, who she consulted before taking important decisions. This column may have played an important role in those decisions.

According to some evidence, the column was used by Ruggieri, primarily as an astrological observatory. Ruggieri had a workshop at the top of the tower, but interestingly it could also be accessed directly from Catherine de Médicis’s apartment in the palace via a spiral staircase. What exactly took place in Ruggieri’s workshop is not clear, and neither is the exact role astrology played in the life of Catherine de Médicis, an incredibly powerful woman, who was Queen from 1547 to 1559, then Queen Mother and advisor to three of her sons during their reigns.

Catherine de Médicis died in 1589, but the tower has survived long after her. Ruggieri continued with his work in his room, but made many enemies in the church and the court. When he died in 1615 he was refused a decent burial, and instead his body was dragged through the streets of the city and left on the wayside. Is it surely for this reason that there have often been reported sightings of a dark figure at the top of this column on stormy nights.

After the death of Ruggieri, it is probable that the column became purely decorative or possibly defensive. The column was sold separately from the rest of the palace, thus saving it from destruction, although it is not known why this was the case. It was eventually sold on again to the city of Paris, and has stood firmly in place whilst first the palace was demolished, then two other buildings were built around it (initially the Halle aux Blés, then today’s Bourse de Commerce).

The column looks curiously out of place today, even if the Bourse de Commerce that blankets it was designed in a similar classical style. It looks like an extravagant chimney, or a rather absurd decorative feature, but given this, it is still easy to overlook it in the congested landscape of Les Halles.

Does it still serve a purpose today? The staircase still exists inside the tower, but today there are no echoes of footsteps mounting and descending the steps. The doorway on the ground level is now firmly closed, and nobody stands at the top anymore – do they?

Something for the Weekend? (30th October/1st November)

One month comes to an end and another one begins as we slip ever closer to winter. Halloween falls on a Saturday and makes a comeback, but the average French person is still more concerned with the 1st of November - traditionally a day off work - falling on a Sunday!

Please add any events or activities you think should be promoted or which you would like to promote yourself in the comments, and let me know if you have any events in the coming weekends you would like to promote.

Halloween
Although the French have generally given up celebrating Halloween, the fact that it falls on a Saturday this year has been seen by most of the bars and clubs around Paris as an opportunity not to be missed. Is there anything particularly exciting being organised anywhere though? Well, in the afternoon you can get yourself made up as a zombie and join others for a walk around the city. In the evening, the Batofar is reopening after two weeks of renovations with a Halloween themed evening, including heavy metal concerts in the evening and DJs later on. This floating venue near the Bibliotheque Nationale will also feature a mini-museum of horrors and the screening of a selection of gory films for its Beat the Boat event.

Mixmove Sessions
Being a DJ or a musician in the electronic sphere is a serious business today, and this new date gives them the chance to meet, discuss, learn how to promote themselves and try out new equipment. For the casual visitor, it is an opportunity to get a closer look at this fascinating world, and also the recent and very interesting GFO Barbara building in Barbès. Live music events will take place in the evening.
http://www.mixmove-sessions.com/
30th and 31st October
Centre Fleury Goutte d’Or Barbara Paris
1 Rue Fleury, 75018

More Modern Art
After the FIAC circus last weekend, the ‘GMAC’ (Grand Marche d’Art Contemporain) offers a more leisurely outing. Of course this outdoor event alongside the basin and the Place de la Bastille is not at all on the same scale, and the creations are surely less interesting, but this time people might actually be buying art rather than watching other people buying it.
From 27th October to 1st November
Place de la Bastille

La Fête du Slip
Think you look good in a pair of y-fronts? If you’ve got the balls for it, this weekend at the Galeries Lafayette you can get yourself photographed wearing a pair of Calvin Kline boxers and enter an international competition. The winners will earn themselves a modeling contract and a holiday to South Africa.
http://www.9countries9men.com/
Friday 30th and Saturday 31st October
Galeries Lafayette

Shopping for Charity
If you want to go shopping this weekend and not feel guilty, the place to go is the Espace Showroom in the 8th arrondissement. Twice a year, an organisation called Arcat runs a charity sale of much-reduced designer clothes and accessories, which have been donated by the creators concerned. Entrance costs 2 Euros, and this plus the proceeds of all sales goes to charities working in the fight against HIV and AIDS. Expect to find gear from Antik Batik, Isabelle Marant, Princesse Tam-Tam and Lollipops amongst many others – if you get there early enough !

29th to 31st Oct 2009
L'Espace Showroom 30

30 Rue de Lisbonne 75008

Paris People - Jesse Vernon

What persuaded an established musician to give up home comforts and start anew in Paris? Jesse Vernon of Morningstar explains why he chose the city to pursue his career and how he is surviving in the digital age.

The digital revolution in the music industry has left many artists spinning, but for others it has opened new perspectives. Jesse Vernon though is from the old school, an artist who just loves being up on stage and sharing his music. Indeed, to get the full Morningstar experience, you really have to see Vernon and his musicians play live. The group is essentially his solo project, with a changing line up of hired musicians according to where he is playing, but it is his onstage persona and his posse of backing singers which creates the spectacle.

As Vernon bounds around the stage it is as if Buddy Holly had joined up as the seventh member of the Monty Python team. Seeing upwards of fifteen backing singers alongside him is equally as surreal, but the overall effect is warm and charming. Vernon is no newcomer to strangeness though as he was previously a member of the mildly successful Bristol band The Moonflowers who often took to the stage dressed as flowers.

He tells me that he came to Paris originally "for the adventure", but this is not the only reason. "Actually my record company (Microbe) is based in Paris” he explains. The choice of coming to Paris was not made by Jesse Vernon alone though. His girlfriend, Kate Stables, is also a musician, running a band called This is the Kit (who have also released an album via Microbe), and it was very much a joint decision. They have been living in the city for four years now, and combine playing music with bringing up their young daughter. The situation is even more complex as they often play in each other’s bands. Wouldn’t it make things easier if they just formed a group together I ask? “No, we support each other when we can but we also have our own different styles” explains Vernon, “and anyway, we would have so many more problems with babysitters and things”.

Vernon's style is certainly different, but how does he explain the large on-stage choir? In fact, its creation was more as answer to some of the practical issues of playing in Paris. “There are a lot of small venues here, places that will pay me 50-60 Euros per show, but I can’t afford to pay professional musicians with that. However, going up on stage with a choir enables me to offer something a bit more original than just a man and a guitar”.

His interest in choral harmonies dates back to his time in The Moonflowers, and he has been running various choirs for ten years. In Paris it was initially a way to earn some extra cash, but as his time has become more limited, he has now had to almost incorporate them as part of his group. He gives free lessons, but in exchange they will appear on stage with him at his concerts for no fee. Seeing the group live, it was clear that the singers were delighted to be there with him.

As Morningstar, Jesse Vernon has released three albums, and a fourth is finished but not yet officially available. It is a tricky subject for Vernon, and one that highlights some of the problems confronting musicians at the moment. “I can sell the CD at my shows” he tells me, “but there has been a problem and the distribution won’t be until January now”. Wouldn’t it be easier to bypass the record company altogether and use an online service like iTunes? Vernon hesitates - “Perhaps in the UK where I don’t have a distributor, but I don’t want to upset my record company here. It’s a partnership and they have helped me a lot in the past”.

A track from Vernon's latest album.

So is it easy to be a professional musician in Paris today? “Paris is anything but easy” Vernon tells me. “It can be so difficult to organise anything. In Bristol I would phone two or three places in the morning, see who had any slots available then organise a show for the same evening. Here everything takes so much longer”. Vernon has also seen a huge rise in the number of bands around on the circuit recently too making it more difficult to make his mark in the city, but he has always had favourable reviews, and the popular Télérama magazine recently highlighted him as the standout act in a festival organised in the city.

Between delays with albums and problems finding gigs that pay a decent rate, how does he manage to survive? Firstly by working hard, (as well as playing as Morningstar and in This is the Kit, he also plays in a French band called Hyperclean), and secondly through royalties. A few years ago his record company put forward one of his songs for an advert for female sanitary products, and it was used for three years in a row. "It wasn't enough to survive on, but it certainly helped" he tells me.

What will the future bring for Jesse Vernon and Morningstar? The day after meeting me he is already rushing off to Toulouse to play a concert in somebody's house, and in the weeks to come he will be off touring around the UK with Hyperclean. It's a hectic, unorthodox lifestyle, but Paris remains his rock - for the moment. "We won't stay here forever" he tells me. “We came to France for the adventure” he continues "and we love it here, but who knows what will happen in the future". We should make the most of such original artists whilst they are still here!

Links:
http://www.myspace.com/jessedvernon
http://www.morningstarsmallorchestra.org.uk/
http://www.thisisthekit.co.uk/

Rainy Days and Sundays

Paris is a Northern city that thinks it is in the South, a Latin soul stuck in the wrong climate. Magnificent when the sun is out, it is a little less appealing when the skies open. There is an art to adapting to rainy skies and cold snaps, and Paris has never had that knack. The city of fashion is just not interested in doing warm and comfortable sweaters and sensible footwear.

Why this should be when Paris has over three times as much rain as London is a mystery. The city is a show-off, always presenting her best side to passers by and keeping nothing aside for a rainy day.

It rained on Saturday. Inner-city blues.

Sunday. Never has a day been so aptly named. An extra hour in bed, and waking up to blue skies. Paris will be back to her best again, presenting her finest angles to the low lying sun.