The Morrison Hotel Mystery
The death of Jim Morrison is not the only mystery in the Rue Beautreillis. On this street where the leader of The Doors spent the last few months of his life and where he (probably) died, another door stands curiously alone. But what is it?
The last bastion standing
Today only one significant element of the city’s 19th century fortifications remains standing. Where is the Bastion n°1 and what purpose does it serve today?
Thursday, 30 September 2010
Something for the Weekend (1st – 3rd October)
Sleepless nights this weekend as the annual Nuit Blanche event returns to the city. If you need your sleep though, you’ll also find several other recommended (daytime!) events on the Paris Weekends blog.
Monday, 27 September 2010
Take-Away Art
Street art comes in many shapes and forms, but few are as simple as the creations of an artist known as Liox. Operating at night, Liox wanders the streets, creating trails of sketches that stretch through the east of Paris.“Mon nom d'artiste est LIOX , je suis peintre et graphiste”, he says as way of introduction on his website. “Je colle dans la rue des dessins originaux offerts au bon vouloir des passants. Des dessins à redecoller et à s'accaparer... ou même s'ils ne plaisent décidément pas à déchirer, tagger, annoter” (I stick original sketches in the street, leaving them for whoever wants to take them. Drawings to grab and stick somewhere else…or if they really don’t please people, to rip, tag or write comments on).
The real name of the artist Liox is Lionel Andeler, but it seems a little pointless to dig any further into the identit(y)ies of a man who dresses as a woman. Concentrate on the art and the creations, this seems to suggest, and there is much to investigate. As an illustrator he has produced several children’s books (one of his declared heroes is Tomi Ungerer), and as an artist he has exhibited in France, Germany and Brazil, but for several years now he has also taken his art directly into the streets.
His signed sketches can be found attached to fences, signposts and walls across the city, generally “représentant…les symboles de la république sous une forme nouvelle, créative, atypique mais surtout porteuse d'un sens concis" (representing the symbols of the French republic in a new form, creative, atypical but above all with a concise signification). Recently, his primary target has been Marianne, the national emblem of France. In the two examples I found most recently, Marianne is first tired and haggard in ‘en retraite - in retirement’ (a comment on the proposed raising of retirement ages in France) and then crying (O larmes etc, a play on words with ‘aux armes’ from the French national anthem - particularly the Serge Gainsbourg version!).
Did I take them and are they collectable? I prefer the idea of the sketches staying in the street, questioning the passers by who stop to look at them, so I didn't take one, and collectability implies rarity, but Liox is in fact quite prolific. During the 2007 Nuit Blanche event, he created 2007 of the sketches that were hung in the town hall of the 4th arrondissement for visitors to take away. He later repeated the action during the 2008 Ateliers d’artistes de Belleville event, this time with hundreds of sketched angels.Anyway, I’m sure that I will have other occasions to take away a piece of this art in the future. Despite having certain problems with the police in the past, he is unwavering in his desire to continue posing questions and to continue offering his drawings. As he summarises on his website, "il y en a eu, il y en a, et il y en aura encore" .
You can see the artist in action in this interesting film:
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x82ifr_liox-sage-comme-une-image_creation
Friday, 24 September 2010
Something for the Weekend (24th – 26th September)
Something for everyone this weekend including literary festivals, secret gardens, artists studios, ethical fashion, loud music and a pyramid of shoes!
See the Paris Weekends blog for the full list of my recommendations.
See the Paris Weekends blog for the full list of my recommendations.
Wednesday, 22 September 2010
The Tall Tale of Sainte Odile
Within earshot of the noisy péripherique motorway and on the very limit of the city stands the tallest steeple in Paris. Why was the Sainte Odile church built here though, and what is its significance today? The 1920s and 30s were a boom-time for church building in Paris and the surrounding region, with over 50 places of worship built on the territory during this period. Ostensibly the goal of this initiative, labelled ‘les chantiers du cardinal’ (Verdier), was to provide work for tradesmen in difficult times, but there was also certainly an almost missionary desire to bring religion to the rapidly developing suburbs and to its ‘godless’ people.
This was certainly true of the area in which Sainte Odile was built. In the 1920s, one priest, the Père Loutil, campaigned for the construction of a new church in the Champerret district, a place typical of the outskirts of the city. As he said later, "dans ces années, le quartier était composé d'ateliers de carrossiers, de tôliers, et de ce qu'on appelait la zone, surtout" (in those years, the district was made up of carriage makers, metal workers and above all what we called the zone).
We come back once again to the reconstruction of Paris’s city limits and the replacement of Thier’s fortifications. These areas, known as the zone, were ungoverned and slightly lawless, but were slowly being replaced by social housing, parks and sports facilities. In this part of Paris, the Père Loutil wanted to ensure that it would be a church replacing the ‘zone’.Enough money was found in the parish to begin construction and a young architect, Jacques Barge, who was only 31 when he took on the job, was appointed. The project was to recreate a spirit of ancient christianity, based around a kind of roman/byzantine basilica. Modern materials, principally concrete, made this possible in what was a very tricky plot. Neighbours were positioned in very close proximity to the proposed strucutre, and one of them, the Ziegler family, only agreed to give up part of their land if no windows were built into the southern side of the church.
The structure is principally three coupoles and a 72 metre high clock tower. The decorative touches though are what set this church apart from many other built at the time and it features many remarkable examples of art deco inspired creations. The most remarkable of all are the stained glass windows (on the north side of the church!), but the carved entrance is also quite spectacular. The Père Loutil was also a man who encouraged ‘spiritual’ art, and it was he who organised a group of like-minded artists to work together on the church. It seems that several of the families involved lived together on site whilst working, and it is even said that two children were born in the church!
The church was finally completed in 1953. Over the half-century since then the neighbourhood has seen many changes, and is today a comparitively wealthy one. Does it still serve the same purpose now that the area has gone upmarket? The church and its spire still dominate the surroundings, but on a typical week-day lunchtime it is far from being a hive of activity inside. I wander around the building in silence, completely alone, but it's a welcome change from the the roar of the motorway and bus interchange alongside. Perhaps this then is the role it plays today. A building which was constructed to bring a community together is now a site where people can escape from its constant buzz!L'eglise Sainte Odile
2 Avenue Stéphane Mallarmé, 75017, M° Porte de Champerret
Tuesday, 21 September 2010
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